tips for using blender to design parts. check blender page
If you want a fun new hobby or looking to extend your engineering capability’s pickup a davinci 1.0 off ebay or newegg.ca for 400 usd shipped to your door in 3 days or spend more and get one with dual extruders (both supported in repetier firmware), though changing pla filament mid print works good too. spend a week learning to print with different materials on different materials.
First off you will need to figure out how to flash your davinci. it uses the bossa atmel transfer protocol for sending the firmware ive herd of people flashing them without rebooting them but i’ve yet to do that.
- http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:623274 one of these put a peice of blue kapton tape on the bottom of it to isolate the hotend part.
- http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:592197 << filament guide and back corner bracket, mine were printed in abs and still worked well.
- spool rollers / hangers https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2966732
Printrun and cura to do all the slicing and dicing so next was to fab up some quick easy abs parts a spool holder. new fan shrowd with a bottom covering the , put the pla spool inside the unit, put some pva glue down and print
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:722204 settings for cura — cura profiles for loading stl files and exporting proper sliced gcode , after the first layer frints good turn the hotbed off the prints stick great for the whole print.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2934923 the backside fan was left stock but the printed cover would probably work good for it too.
i scaled up the ring to 1.1 someone should take the time to make a proper print/clip for it.
ps3 eyetoy works really good with guvcview. i had to invert the picture because the camera was hotglued to the camera mounting bracket upside down.
- repetier 0.92 – version seems to work well (specialized for davinci printers)
- waiting for a transend wifi sd card, should be interesting.
- PEI film for printing on, a better than tape alternative if you dont mind leving the heatbed on for quick prints. mcmasters seems to be the cheepest sofar for a 1/16 th sheet. amazon sells too.
- printing on bare glass from my experiance so far is not a fun i recommend unless you want to spend 1kg worth of pla.
- Blender works great for 3d printers , i’ll cover some basics here later or at the very least post some links
just finished putting new spool into the unit ready to start the fun.
well theres about 141 deg difference between the temperature needed from the hotend and bed for this fluorescent filament to make it stick to glass on the first layer, i havnt gotten much further than that without glue yet.
Things To Watch for while printing
- some things to watch for the y axis belts can get misaligned by being off a few teeth on a belts between the x carridge and the double y drive axle and it will no longer hit the endstop when homing or as free when moving it but it is very easy to miss untill you’ve cranked your homing feedrates up haha. also the y axis bearing holders are delicate so take it easy untill you get everything running smoothly.
- curling on the base , it can happen anytime during the print from random bumps or what have it, if its an emergency to hold a corner i found hotglue to work ok , i’ve herd of using hairspray to restick fallen off parts too.
- pva aka any white school glue from the dollar store works excelent applied in a few layers in a 1:10 ratio roughly i’ve been getting good luck with 210-215 first layer, then down to 208 with a 78 C bed for the first layer 70 for 10 layers then off for the rest.
- pei sheets from http://www.mcmaster.com/#8685k43/=w7bfza if your going to get 1/16 inch sheet for 30 dollars use a business name if you live anywhere other than usa or they will not ship to regular joes’s for some reason.
- blue painters tape is kindof a pain to put on , the best adhesion out of all of them, it wrecks the glossy look and smushes the first couple layers worth of detail if you do not adjust your gcode for the tape thickness. comes off fairly clean depending on the temp you layed down at. would say if you have a fine part or a whole plate of parts use bluetape otherwise use pva
I had issues with the hotend printing pla so i replaced it with https://www.ebay.ca/itm/3D-Printer-Universal-Hotend-w-MK10-nozzle-f-MK8-MK9-extruder-most-Extruders/252836580460
was easy drop in replacement. the old one i made with a grinding wheel and vicegripts(not reccomended) was on the right.
The Cubit 3D Printer
melzi 644p board with sprinter firmware – i will upload later, under 50 dollars on ebay.
this board was a bit tricky to get working properly fuse settings and incode timing fix
avrdude -B 8 -patmega644P -c usbtiny -U lfuse:w:0xFF:m -U hfuse:
w:0xDC:m -U efuse:w:0xFD:m
also put this in the start loop somewhere to make things run properly on the 644p
MCUCR|= (1<<JTD); MCUCR|= (1<<JTD);
MCUCR|= (1<<JTD); MCUCR|= (1<<JTD);
the mosfet’s on the melzi boards were melting off so i used an unused io pin from the many extra and attached this 4 mosfet beast to pwm the heatbed to get er working good heh.